Focus ROMI.HR

As part of this year’s ZagrebDox International Documentary Film Festival, I had the opportunity to watch Soil and Wings, a quiet and observational documentary that immerses viewers in the daily life of Kanatlar, a small village near the city of Prilep in North Macedonia. The village is home to a Turkish-speaking, Bektashi Muslim minority community. Without the use of narration or dramatic storytelling, the film simply presents scenes of everyday routines, cultural rituals, and social interactions, inviting viewers to observe and reflect.

The documentary offers a rare glimpse into a lesser-known community shaped by multiple identities—ethnic, religious, and national. It highlights how traditions are preserved amid change and how a sense of belonging is forged through both the physical landscape and shared history. By focusing on the intimate details of village life—farming, cooking, prayer, and conversation—the film creates a calm yet powerful portrait of resilience and cultural continuity.

Origins and Cultural Heritage of Kanatlar

Kanatlar is a village of around 2,000 residents located near Prilep in North Macedonia. The community’s livelihood primarily depends on agriculture, especially tobacco and watermelon cultivation, alongside some animal husbandry. The village’s identity is strongly rooted in Bektaşi culture, which deeply influences its customs and way of life. The name Kanatlar—meaning “wings” in Turkish—comes from a local legend surrounding Dikmen Baba, a revered Bektaşi dervish believed to be the village’s founder.

Dikmen Baba’s tomb (yatır) serves as both a spiritual landmark and a tekke (dervish lodge) for the community. Historical records and oral traditions trace Kanatlar’s Turkish and Bektaşi identity back to the early 16th century, when Dikmen Baba laid the foundations for this cultural heritage. It is said that Dikmen Baba, whose given name was Mehmet, was either a disciple or contemporary of Hıdır Baba in Brod. Originally, the village was known by its Macedonian name Avramotski (Avramovci), but after villagers claimed to have seen Dikmen Baba flying over the area with wings, the village was renamed Kanatlar (wings).

The Story of Kurt Dede (Grandfather Wolf)

In Kanatlar village, stories about Kurt Dede Koca are well known alongside those of Dikmen Baba. Kurt Dede Koca’s tomb is located in the lower part of the village, and he is believed to have arrived about 150 years before Dikmen Baba. One popular legend tells how he earned his name: after a wolf ate one of his oxen while he was transporting stones, Kurt Dede Koca harnessed the wolf to the cart, and together the wolf and remaining ox pulled it home. Villagers, amazed by this, began calling him “Kurt Dede,” meaning “Grandfather Wolf.”

Even after his death, Kurt Dede Koca is said to have performed miracles. During World War II, soldiers trying to recruit men from Kanatlar saw trenches filled with water around the village and left, thinking the villagers were well defended. The next day, the trenches had vanished, believed to be a miracle of Kurt Dede Koca. These stories are shared not only by the villagers but also by nearby Macedonian Christian communities. People also report seeing a mysterious light near Dikmen Baba’s tomb late at night, adding to the spiritual significance of these figures in the region.

Life and Beliefs in Kanatlar

The documentary offers insights into the daily life and values of Kanatlar’s residents, revealing a community with a liberal and open approach to tradition and faith. One woman’s remark, “Rakija is not a sin. It is a medicine,” highlights a practical attitude toward cultural customs. The presence of a poster of Ekrem İmamoğlu, a prominent opposition politician and mayor of Istanbul, further reflects the village’s progressive political leanings and a flexible interpretation of Islam that embraces modernity alongside heritage.

The residents of Kanatlar, deeply rooted in Bektashi tradition, observe several unique cultural and religious practices. One significant period is the “Imam Hüseyin Matemi”, a 12-day mourning during which the community refrains from eating meat and eggs, cutting trees, laughing, or celebrating, reflecting solemn respect for the martyrdom of Imam Hüseyin. This practice, also known as “Bektaşi mahremi”, emphasizes reflection and restraint.

Soil and Wings provides a respectful and intimate portrayal of Kanatlar, a community where history, faith, and culture intertwine to shape everyday life. Through quiet observation, the documentary reveals how traditions endure amid modern challenges and how identity is preserved through shared stories, spiritual beliefs, and communal values. The film invites viewers to appreciate the resilience of this Turkish-speaking, Bektashi Muslim minority, (also known for the membership of a certain number of Roma in North Macedonia, Kosovo, and Albania to this minority religious community) reminding us of the richness found in often overlooked corners of the world. Kanatlar’s story is one of continuity, adaptation, and a deep connection to both heritage and place—an important testament to cultural diversity in North Macedonia and beyond.